An alternate eternal city

Berlin is still an amazing city. So much to do. Jeff and I both wished we could have stayed longer, but we'd committed to a schedule.

Despite some pretty crappy weather, we managed to squeeze in a lot over 2 days. We arrived in the afternoon, after ze efficient Germans got across the border from the Czech Republic. First stop was the Jewish Museum - much different from the one in Prague. This one chronicles the 2000 year history of the Jews. It's housed in an unusually modern building, and yet again there was a lot of information to absorb. I think what hit me most was how the fortunes of the Jews were just starting to turn around when WWI hit, followed by the regime of the Nazis. Almost overnight, public opinion towards the Jews reversed itself.

Then, we had a great dinner of Schnitzel at a restaurant off the beaten path, clearly were a lot of locals dine. The tables are long and wooden, almost medieval. Jeff finally found a beer he liked - a weissbier, Erdinger.

The next morning, we received another history lesson at the German History Museum. There was sooooo much to see here; 2 hours wasn't nearly enough. I personally spend too much time in the medieval section that I zipped through the Napoleanic years, the formation of the German republic, and the first world war in like 5 minutes. Again, it still shocks me how an entire continent can become so consumed with nationalism to start WWI. Yes, Germany bears part of the blame, but certainly not all of it.

BTW: I snapped a cool photo of Napolean's hat and sword from the Battle of Waterloo!

Then, we went on the New Berlin Third Reich Walking tour, where our charismatic tour guide Mike took us an historical journey through the rise of power of Hitler. This tour was less for sightseeing than it was for information. All the placards around town that are in German, Mike explained vividly with stories. We saw the Russian War Memorial, situated oddly enough in West Berlin on the former field of battle in front of the Reichstag (Parliament Building). We passed the former Luftwaffe Headquarters (Air Force), which mysteriouslz survived the bombing raids of the allied forces. We also took a tour through the Topography of Terror exhibit, situated in the excavated prison cells of the former SS and Gestapo. We saw chilling images of Hitler, Heinrich Himmler, Hermann Goering, and Reinhardt Heydrich - the butcher of Berlin who was poised to take over as leader of the Nazis. Amazingly, his grandfather was Jewish!!! I also saw the most frighting picture to date (until we go the the concentration camp in Munich) - a picture of SS soldiers holding pistols to the back of peoples heads, smiling.

The evening was a little more upbeat - we ascended the TV tower and had alcoholic ice cream sundaes in the revolving restaurant. That wasn't our original plan, but once we got up to the restaurant, we decided to stay.

The next day, we went on the Free Walking Tour with the New Berlin company; our guide was Jasoni. This was a repeat for me, as I did this last summer, but basically we got a crash course on the history of Berlin and saw the key sights like the Brandenberg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and Museum Island. The climax of the tour is the story of how the Berlin Wall Fell in 1989. Essentially, a press conference blunder by "The Big Shabowsky". I can explain that in person, if you don't already know!!

Right now, I'm in Heidelberg for a quick stop. We explored the spectacular Heidelberg Castle this morning, which includes the curious Apothecary (a.k.a. Pharmacy) Museum. Kind of a chill out day before we head to our last stop in Munich, where there is tons to do. I've added a lot of scenic pictures to my collection of desktop backgrounds!

Update to the beer list:

• Kroningberg 1664 (Zermatt)


• Erdinger (Berlin)


• Berliner Pilsner (Berlin)


• Paulsaner Munchen (Heidelberg) - a Munich beer, so I'm a little ahead of the game!